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http://marinewerft.jimdo.com/downloads/tipps-und-tricks/
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marinewerft.de Tutorial No1 "Burnt Steel"
http://marinewerft.jimdo.com/app/download/1736245450/49db057a/ad4426d3d12bc25ac516a52cd065e7d955a7982f/marinwerft_tutorial_1_ausgegluehter_Stahl_Haarspray.pdf




Naval shipyard Tutorial Series No. 1
more annealed steel under use of hair spray

The war, and this is simply his nature, provokes destruction and destruction. A big part of this destruction becomes, for instance, as a result of from explosions, by being roused material, chemicals or by fire means caused. Partly intends, partly uncontrollably, heavy ones often rage for days. Fires, devour person and material and everything is in way what of them. These fires leave beside the proverbial track of the destruction naturally also tracks on the most different Materialen.The tracks of such fires in the model is to be shown the subject of this article.

Moreover we strain once the trunk of a Tamiya 1 / 350th Bismarck class.This trunk was varnished in the example already once and was aged, and is therefore perfectly as a test bearer suitable.

Thetrunk is preshaded, varnished in XF-53 TAM, sealedlightened with white, seals with varnish and with oil paints easily treats.

I intend it is more sensible, the technologies only after a spraying in the same one integrate. It concerns here virtually a kind of detail, in a spraying it is inserted. Maybe it is not to be varnished completely so recommendable only the rust and then the rest all around. But this can decide everybody best of all for itself. Hence, enough of the theory and the chat, on too new actions!

Our first protagonists are an old and strongly shortened bristle brush as well as Gunze's Mr. dissolved Putty.  Of the liquid spatulas is spread with a paintbrush and then during Of drying process with the bristle works on. A rough surface on one originates later can well work.

The model is released at the place to be treated with acetone from the varnish and with "Mr DISSOLVED PUTTY", spotted, treats.

This was real it also already in preparations, because nowif it goes directly in varnish. If we begin with the order of the "purpose color" that is that color, we long to see at the end as a dominating main color decided.

TAM XF-9 "hull red" forms the first, XF-68 TAM "nato brown" the second ones Color order. This time I have myself to one "lighten" from the outside inwards

„ No breathing space, history is done. It leads the way! “ ***, well, maybe now not exactly history, but at the head it goes, nevertheless. And this rather quickly, because we can virtually work „ wet in wet “. Also time-consuming clean to the gun is superfluously. Simply some 2-Propanol (Iso) in the mug, briefly durchspülen and ready. The next color!
Further lightened with Gunze H37 "wood brown"
From here I followed in the arrangement of the colors the principle: „ In the end must go black on top on it and orange below in it. “ This appeared
inevitably around verkokelte and unburned color, in the transitional area to the rest to show to the trunk spraying. There is n.m. E kei no special manufacturers they would be important. Importantly only that is it fine acrylic colors should be. (Gunze or Tamiya, e.g.) this are resistant
compared with the Citrus the turpentine which I use with pleasure for washes. Special ones Verdünner or even "ready mixes" for Washes get on mostly even badly with Enamel or synthetic resin colors.
To the following picture was to me with the thought of the original only one Fakt importantly: Water cools! This cannot signify that the color near the water line completely burns itself down. Thus I have started especially there massively orange. It puts to this orange the rust relaxed in the water which runs about whitely burnt color. Then below the burnt color verkokelte color is only. I do not believe the color in the water in the same way "burns itself down" like in the air.

Orange and knows here two most important colors have been for me.
Now at this point became there Now at this point the hair spray was raised.
Simply in an empty stained glass spray and in the gun give. One can do it
perhaps, also directly on the model spray.

Now after an other layer of XF-53 came the edges of the burnt ones
Surface in black and knows.

A way XF-53 TAM. Drying time maybe 10 minutes. This might one
be a variable value. Afterwards once again a little bit black for the edge, similarly
to the preceding picture.

Now real water comes into play. With the bristle brush I applied water and weichte with it the surfaces located on the hair lacquer of the color in. I had to rub a little more hard, besides, and the paintbrush lost some of his bristles. Not possibly because of the intensity, but I shortened him a little bit with it I
more exactly could work. Maybe one can do also without hair spray and just with him Paintbrush and water on it herumschrubben. One bumps under circumstances, as well as in to my case, also sometimes by all colors all colors to down on the plastic. One can do this but easily with the oil paints and some pigment make invisible. On some of her to the following pictures one can in the upper left corner of the brown area
appear, and again see disappearing.

Now the effects step by days. Occasionally I more often have with clear water
rinsed to see in which color layer exactly I was. This
Dishwater complicates in the meantime the view and the precise one work.
Well recognizably the last way black in U form around the fire surface

Now it can go on always nicely carefully. The Putty pointed me
reliably where the undercoated surfaces ended. Further on the next side with
to the pictures after the remove by washing of the color.


With oil paints like umbra and sienna, as well as some pigment, I put even smaller ones Filter and soft-focus lens as well as the last corrections. Voila! The whole action at another place of the same model All protagonists again gathers peacefully.

THATS IT, FOLK! A lot of fun with copy wishes You.
Your Alex ☺

[ 本帖最後由 cedric_chan1322 於 2009-4-7 04:03 PM 編輯 ]

marinewerft.de Tutorial No2 "Rigging

http://marinewerft.jimdo.com/app/download/1734565950/49db057a/f05810dde7117762e40f509e46c0de2cb3027c21/Gie%C3%9Fast_Takelage_Rig_Anleitung.pdf

The "long-runner". Rig (riggings) provide and other applications with
Pouring branch

One of many possibilities more or less realistic (s) Rig or rigging to
provide exists in the use of the Spritzlingsrahmen around of it about one
To pull candle thin threads. I call that now sometimes the pouring branch method.
The advantages lie according to my opinion in the fact, which in every Kit virtually provided becomes, is easily to be processed, and to itself by the metre in the strengths required in each caseallows to produce.Further one can produce with it also perfect spannings. Because it to itself, once obstructed, in the model with heat allows to be tight, one can do single ropes or Stage absolutely just are tight without already mounted elements of the rigging again pull. In shorter pieces is used one are not mostly tight urgently. If one cleanly moves one gets first a very straight piece, absolutely in lengths about one Meter easily and fast on the table.
One can cut of this length the short pieces which adapt length roughly and
the parts then with tweezers and second glue (below SK) before or
directly in the model fix final.
I cut mostly roughly on length, fix unilaterally in the model, exactly take a short-cut
and if the second place closes then.
" To the thing, darling " ☺
In material one needs, actually, only one tea warmer candle, something to light of course,
a scalpel and a piece from the Spritzlingsrahmen.
If still some numbers or forks should go in the Spritzlingsrahmen
exist, I would cut off this. If one does not do this, one receives
every now and then strong variations in the strength of the raw thread. This is not necessarily
badly, because thus one keeps an assortment of different strengths, if one a small collection would like to increase.
If one needs, however, a lot of thread in the same strength, one should this
maybe quite just take a short-cut.
One holds the versäuberte frame piece now, deviating from picture, mainly
with both hands, about the tea warmer candle and turns the piece easily between him
To fingers to and fro. The branch catches first in to shine and becomes till insides
softy.
In the above pictures it is not illustrated quite correctly. A hand held that
Camera. But then about so this looks out.
Now the branch is till insides so hotly he starts to become liquid. Now
if one leaves of the flame and catches immediately in to move.
TIP: If one moves quickly to fast the thread becomes very thin, one moves very slowly if one receives a little stronger thread.
If one has properly done everything one receives clean threads of any strength. Of course
if one can also use brown or black plastic. Thus one saves this
Varnish and the Klebestelle is more stable. In general one should nobody varnished
Thread stick together, but only close and then varnish.
In the end, that should hold everything also for a while
A small assortment in short threads
Here and there one can get to know one also hold the thread about the flame
can, until he starts to burn to move then. However, I have noted this
the thread then becomes more fragile. This might itself negatively on the durability
knead. But there one can do then his own experiences.
Interesting the fact is maybe also the different manufacturer
of different recipes serve with her frames. I find up to now Tamiya in best for such purposes suitable. However, Trumpeter also has a suitable one
Recipe.
Now in the picture (sorry very darkly) the middle branches are mounted in them
- roughly on length were cut
- at an end with SK in the yard were stuck together
- roughly were prestretched
- at the second end with the yard were stuck together without fully durchzuspannen
How one is able to recognize looks, indeed, already after something, works
but rather clumsy. Thus one cannot leave of course.
If we come to the instep of the rigging.
The followers now are a thing of the feeling and, nevertheless, it needs some attempts
to functions really perfectly. Now one takes a Hitzquelle more mezzo
Intensity. With me has turned out following suitable:
- Safety pin The needle is straightened, without spiral aufzubiegen. The point becomes
heated up to them glows. This happens directly beside the model, it must go fast to them
Place reach where the heat should work.
By the spiral the needle remains long enough. Thus one must not the clutch side
isolate. Thus I do it, in any case, always without specially isolation.
TIP: I even mostly go so far, which I the movement of the flame to
Thread there and fast again away, before coldly tries. I respect to it the way
it is free and I must register nothing else than collateral damage. Nothing is
more irritatingly if, besides, one damages something else.
As soon as the needle near the thread is the heat catches immediately in to work. This Rig stretches at the same moment. If one remains now too long here melts
the thread immediately by. Thus immediately again away with it. One can do that also so long
here do (several times) to the thread as looks as he should go.
Or to him durchgebrutzelt is.:-)))))))))))
Is a matter trying study.
TIP: Every thread stretch individually. Inside start and work to the outside.
The advantage of the safety pin is which it delivers her heat very locally. Importantly with
to several threads they lie side by side. Many warships have antennas
between the masts they lie close together.
- Cigarette Beside the fact one can suck very fully of pleasure at her around the nerves
to calm, one can also use the rejected heat to stretch the Rig. This
functions with single threads very well and is simple there one nothing only warm up
must go. However, there originates in sum more heat than with the needle. This can desirably
or be undesirable
- Soldering irons
If I myself have tried sometimes, also goes well completely. The weight is disadvantageous
Of piston and which he hangs on a cable. Is not so good to work with it,
if I find. Further he heats up radial. This can be unfavorable.
- Aroma joss stick Even not yet tested. Indeed, these are to me model farmer famously
Method in 1/700 apply. The advantages might in the same moderation of her
Heat radiation, the visible heat effect and the moderate intensity lie.
The disadvantage in the hippie atmosphere. But this can also be an advantage. Completely after
Taste. ☺
.
TIP: While sticking together the threads one can determine with the SK the direction in
it should point the thread on hardening the Klebestelle. Either directly to
other end or a par degree of it remotely. With the latter Verklebung can
one on hardening the SK the thread then in the direction bend in of her
the second benchmark lies. The result is a rope something in the wind hangs. Nice
Effect just with Flaggleinen.
Now the tension them originates is not enough around other parts of the rigging to pull, but just properly in order to carry the dead weight of the thread.
I could achieve with it quite tolerable results. The threads let themselves
also with a minimum of SK in the model bring. Thus one has virtually none
visible Klebestellen.
The threads are even so loadable one something in them can hang up. To
Example a board airplane in the crane or various flags, signs etc.
After the instep with the safety pin
One can show insulators with small SK drop then they are varnished.
A board airplane in a pouring branch hung up. The spannings
between the surfaces are likewise principal from pouring branch.
HMS Hood 1/350 the Main wireless installations
HMS Hood 1/350 Rig in the Mainmas, t upper Starfish
HMS Hood 1/350 Wireless installations and supporting spannings

[ 本帖最後由 cedric_chan1322 於 2009-4-7 03:22 PM 編輯 ]

多謝分享!!

Detailed description please refer to the previous floor

[ 本帖最後由 cedric_chan1322 於 2009-4-7 05:44 PM 編輯 ]

Oh..very informative...

又係使用噴髮膠

好駛好用呀~